Monday, 7 July 2008

Dave Fortune Silkscreen Workshop

Fi emailed me recently asking how the workshop went, so I thought I'd share what I'd learnt on here.
I also googled Dave and found a simple but useful pdf reminder

1, If you want to draw and then transfer the drawing through a photo sensitive screen emulsion, then Grained Mark Resist Film (just like acetate, but with a grain to hold washes, crayon, and pencil marks) is the surface to work on. When used with Rotring Drawing Ink, or faber's TG1, and in combination with meth's (the purple looking liquid) the mark resist will not warp, and when dry the ink can even be sanded off, and worked on again.

2, For getting pictures copied onto film that you've already previously drawn, Folex imaging
And for Duo tone processes lloyd paton

3, The little things I learnt, which I take away with glee: Put the acrylic medium in before the system 3 paint, as even a short time alone the paint will dry. 50/50 mix (which I knew already), flood your screen after every print, as this stops the holes getting clogged. Register using the hinge method, which is basically for multi coloured printing, printing on an acetate sheet first, and then registering your previous prints with the acetate, and once done, then placing tabs on the table, and lifting the hinged acetate away ready to print. This was awesome, it's not new news, but when I saw it done in front of my own eyes with such accuracy, I nearly wet my pants with excitement!

4, Ulon Squeegees are a must!

5, An in good condition trough to apply the photo emulsion, and you don't need to be in a dark room to do this, just one without sunlight hitting directly onto you! Which in Birmingham means no need to worry!

6, Cellotape buff, instead of parcel tape (the latter will ruin your screens and you end up using solvents to take off the tack)

7, Need Stencil stripper for the emulsion - called Pregasol F

Dave worked really fast, no messing around, and all very self contained with all of his equipment - the only two machines he had to rely on was a mono laser printer to get the duo tones, and the light sensitive exposure unit, which is partially broken (ours that is), but he still managed some decent prints - sorry no examples, the other tutors nicked them all!

that's it really. One of those, you should have been there experiences,


No comments: